Should you open your guide book, you’d probably notice that Zanzibar's
pre-colonial history is dismissed in a couple of paragraphs. Indeed,
prevailing views have it that “civilization” was brought here by Arab, Indian
and European merchants. Though such an hypothesis must have worked wonders in
rationalizing the colonization of the local people over the centuries; the
islands' early history has a few gripes with it.
The following legend may provide a different perspective of the mutual
benefits of the north -
south migrations:
Many centuries ago, off the north west coast of Unguja, on the islet of
Tumbatu (link to Tumbatu tour page), there lived a King. Though he is
remembered today as the Cannibal King, the description is a misnomer, derived
from the (Arab) word sahrif, which means 'he who is most pagan'. In fact, The
King of Tumbatu never touched a morsel of human flesh; he was simply a most
pagan king.
During his reign, some Arab merchants, sailing south along the East African
coast, were blown off course by a storm and came to Tumbatu. As was customary
in this part of the world, the king offered them his hospitality. He wined
and dined them for a month. In response to this generosity however, the
merchants captured the king and some of his subjects and took them as slaves
to the Arabian Peninsula, where they were very poorly treated.
As slaves, they were converted to Islam, and the king was taken to Mecca by
his master. But after completing his Islamic education, he escaped with a
group of pilgrims and found himself in Egypt. Here, the king was able to
disguise himself as a Nubian and his knowledge of Islam was so deep and so
scholarly, he impressed the Egyptians with his holiness.
The king asked about the Nile and was given many different explanations, but
when he discovered that it flowed from the south, he realised it was his
route home and he started to ride boats and walk along the river. After a
couple of years, he arrived at Lake Victoria and realised it was the
legendary lake he had heard of from traders. He asked where the sea was and
was told it lay to the east and that there were many cities in the region and
people traveling in large boats.
The king made his way from Lake Victoria back to the coast of Tanzania, where
he was immediately recognised by fisherman and was taken home to Tumbatu. He
converted his populace to Islam and became both the religious and the secular
leader of the region.
A year or so later, the same group of Arabs, who had previously been lost in
the storm, were again carried off course and arrived again at Tumbatu. This
time, they were captured by the locals who tied them up because of the Arabs’
treatment of the king. When they were brought before him, the king asked that
they be released and allowed to return home. The council debated the issue
and asked the king why he had made this recommendation. While these people
were not civilised, he explained, they had the saving grace of God and had
introduced him to the one true religion. He maintained they should be shown
the forgiveness that is due children and the ignorant, and they were sent
back to the Arabian Peninsula with gifts for Mecca.
As a rule, archaeologists maintain that a people's capacity for hospitality a
is prerequisite to sophistication in a society. If you cannot put up foreign
visitors for the night, how you do hope to assimilate the new ideas that are
crucial to development? The ancient Greeks recognized this fact, and a breach
of hospitality is the start of many Greek tragedies. Indeed, the Trojan War
is a testament to the horrible consequences that ensue when the tenets of
such hospitality are trespassed.
In the case of the Tumbatu King, it was because of a very deep local
tradition of hospitality that the populace was introduced to Islam.
Considering that hospitality is a cornerstone of Zanzibari society, it is
fitting perhaps that even though the Tumbatu king's hospitality was
trespassed, he turned the event around to the advantage of his people.
Though this story cannot be dated to its origins, this coast has been Islamic
since the 9th century.
The people living here prior to that time seem to have practiced some mixture
of animist African tradition and Zoroastrianism, the ancient Persian religion
of fire worship -- the Magi who brought gifts to Christ were Zoroastrian.
Today, the Zoroastrian tradition has been wiped out by a millennium of Islam,
with the exception of three days each year around the 20th of July. The
festival of Mwaka kogwa -- literally the year is washed -- is the traditional
Zoroastrian new year celebration. Zanzibar remains the only place in the
world where a traditional Zoroastrian holiday is officially recognised and
celebrated by the majority of the population.
Certain regions of Zanzibar, such as Tumbatu, Makunduchi and Kizimkazi, which
coincidentally are the oldest parts of the island archaeologically, are the
regions most involved in this ritual. The holiday is celebrated by the
building of huge bonfires, the staging of sword f ights, transvestitism, and
women beating men in public. The celebration is often accompanied by a
liberal use of alcohol. Once a year, these people forget for a few hours that
they are Muslims and revert to their older tradition. According to a
Zanzibar adage, “to sin once a year is perhaps not so bad.”
More and more, archaeologists are coming to recognize that the benefits of
the trade between East Africa and the rest of the world was of mutual
cultural benefit. Designs that one assumed to have originated in Arabia,
Persia or India may have originated in Africa.
For more information, turn to the writings of Dr. Mark Horton of the
University of York or to Dr. Felix Chami of the University of Dar es Salaam
among others.