PLACES

Hotels

Emerson's & Green is by far the most romantic and exquisite hotel in Stone Town. The number of honeymooners is enough to scare a professional bachelor. A few people have gotten engaged here, too. For a history of the house, visit the Web site at http://www.zanzibar.org/emegre. There are seven rooms and each one has been restored to as close to the original splendor as possible. Many rooms have lattice walls that provide an airy and almost fairy-tale feeling. It's a dreamy experience to have lattice as the only division between you and the owls, and breeze, and calls to prayer. All rooms are self-contained and the manager is concerned with personal detail. Keep in mind that it is a small business in Africa so things like hair dryers are not available from the front desk. The hotel's Tower Top Restaurant is the best spot on the island for a romantic cocktail, dinner and/or breakfast. As it's the second tallest building in town, you can see over 180° of ocean and all of Stone Town and beyond! You can also see fishing boats, dhows and container ships in the harbor, the Anglican Church, the cathedral, many minarets, palaces, water tanks, the suburbs and the housing development built by the then East Germans known affectionately as East Berlin. Dim lighting in town allows the stars to shine their brightest and only 24 people are booked per night so the atmosphere is always intimate. Treat yourself to dinner but be sure to book ahead and plan on the evening. Dinner is five courses.

Chavda has a nice bar with a good view of town but you can't see any of the harbor. The mood is not in the same league with Emerson's & Green, but they have CNN and you can hang out in the bar without committing yourself to dinner. For a quick bite, I like many of the items on the snack menu, they're excellent with beer (especially the fish fingers) and the sauces let you know that you're in an Indian establishment in case the name didn't tip you off. The resturant serves typical Indian fare. I hear the rooms are nice, although the one I saw didn't have any windows accept for the door in the sitting room looking over the courtyard. The rooms have TV (with satellite connections) and may soon have telephones, both of which may be of use for someone traveling on business.

The Zanzibar Serena is the Ritz of Africa. It has all the comforts of home and ocean views. It is the most luxurious and most modern hotel in town complete with a swimming pool that has little fish fountains. For residents it's a destination for cocktails at sunset on the terrace, ice cream, lunch or dinner. The rooms are self-contained and very modern for Zanzibar—complete with air-conditioning, cable TV and telephones.

Matemwe Buungalows can't be described in a few sentences. It should be a must for anyone who will be on the island for more than three days. The bungalows are at least an hour out of town and should be booked ahead of time. Wake up with the sea at your feet and spend the day on a beach with sand like flour. Listen to the bush babies play on your palm-thatch roof at night and watch the fisherman head out on their outriggers in the morning. Because of the bright-white sand, equatorial sun and light blue water you'll need a hat and or sunglasses to see and don't forget to wear sun block. How many people have I seen return to town looking like they were dipped in rasberry syrup? Great food, friendly staff and private, although rustic, accommodations (no electricity in the bungalows).

Restaurants

Café Kelele is Zanzibar's own little McDonalds. Kelele advertises itself as "Fast food, Takeaway and Snacks", but don't let 'em fool you—each plate is made (or fried) to order. Burgers, hotdogs, cheese sandwiches, milk shakes and chocolate cake. Very affordable and clean. The music is always a kick; so far we've heard Elton John's greatest hits, the best of the Eagles and some John Denver!

Emerson's & Green Tower Top Restaurant (see above).

Chavda Roof Bar (see above).

Malindi Kuku—Chicken and Chips!!! Chow down with the locals on one of Stone Town's staple eateries, Malindi Chicken, specializing in chicken and chips (french fries). The price is $3-4 per person for half a rotisserie chicken, chips and the soda of your choice. If you eat outside (inside is occasionally air-conditioned) you can entertain yourself by tossing chicken bits to the cats but don't throw a bone or their coughing will kill your appetite and maybe the cat.

The House of Spices has the best pizza on Zanzibar. Yeah, sure it's nice to try the local cuisine but after two weeks of octopus and rice, you'll enjoy a pizza as much as the next guy. Zee Pizza, the restaurant above the store and guesthouse of The House of Spices, makes brick oven pizza, pastas, steak and fish plates. The pizza dough and pasta are hand-made daily. A good place to brush up on your Italian but they do speak English. Good for lunch or dinner.

Pagoda is Zanzibar's only Chinese restaurant. You're surprised that Zanzibar has a Chinese restaurant? So was I, but now that I'm over the shock, I'm wondering where the Mexican place is. Pagoda has all the delicacies you like at home with extra attention paid to fowl and seafood dishes. The duck is so phenomenal, when you see them in the road days later, you think of the Pagoda. They offer about four soups and watch out for the spicy ones—this is the Orient. The restaurant is air-conditioned, well-run and since it is on the edge of town, they have a shuttle service to get you home. I love riding back home, squired about in the Pagoda shuttle, with the taste of jasmine tea still in my mouth.

Shooting Star Restaurant is way out on the East Coast of the island (about 45 minutes from town) but they have a great restaurant. It's near the sea (near enough for breeze and view) and miles from the nearest anything else. The food's terrific and everything is prepared fresh daily. They also have bungalows, too. You'll want to rent one and sleep on the bluff instead of facing the bumpy ride home after dinner—but it's worth it even if you don't.

Luis Yoghurt Parlor is the perfect place for a lunch-time pick-me-up. Blanche, the proprietor, makes lassis, yogurt shakes and fruit and yogurt cups as well as excellent vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes in traditional Goan style. Try the very good peanut cake or sesame cake for a sweet. Highly recommended, especially for those who are still acclimating to the temperature and the cuisine of Zanzibar. Lunch only Mon-Sat. Say hi to Blanche!